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What the Gorillas of Uganda Taught Me About Life
How I'm forever changed by these magical primates.
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This feeling that I had to get close to gorillas in the wild began more than 25 years ago when we took our daughter to the Congo Gorilla Forest exhibit at the Bronx Zoo. I stared through the glass. One looked at me, and our souls connected. It was magical.
Then last fall, I traveled to the recently opened Volcanoes Safari Kibale Lodge in Uganda. I rejoiced then recoiled. Could I manage the trip physically as a woman over 60, clumsy, chunky — and no Olympian? To prepare, I spent the summer walking in the park and working out in the gym.
Are you, too, someone who has dreamt of going face-to-face with gorillas, the stockiest and largest of great apes, with broad chests and human-like hands? Other lodges to consider for gorilla-sightings and safari tours include Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge and Buhoma Lodge.
This gorilla that passed right Sheryl to snuggle in the bush in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
Courtesy Sheryl Nance-Nash
A voyage to Africa to see gorillas and other spectacular wildlife certainly isn’t cheap. Although if this is on your bucket list as you age, like it was on mine, it’s worth saving up and having the trip of a lifetime.
My concerns about the trip evaporated when situated in my banda (cottage) at the lodge that sits atop a ridge with swooping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, Queen Elizabeth plains and the Kazinga Channel. It wasn’t just the scenery. As a Black woman, there’s something special about being in Africa and connecting with my roots.
I had the opportunity to chat with chimpanzee primatologist Emily Otali, who shared insights into the world of chimps. “A chimpanzee making a pant-grunt sound is a subordinate communicating to a dominant chimpanzee,” she said, pointing out that this is not a mating call. Although it was interesting to hear that older female chimpanzees are perceived as attractive and males mate with them more frequently than with younger females. I also learned that half of a chimpanzee’s day is spent foraging for food and then chewing.
Arriving in the Kibale Forest, we walked and climbed through foliage so thick and tall you practically had to swim through it. Between slippery mud, hills, fallen trees and steep inclines, I was clearly challenged, though laced with adrenaline for what I was about to see — chimpanzees!
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It was thrilling to see the gorillas’ “cousins” up close. They came out, one by one, a baby playing with her mom, others simply sat, staring at us. Some raced past us. Then we heard loud thrashing noises — a rumble in the jungle, what sounded like chimpanzees swinging from trees and tussling in bushes, echoing eerily.
This clearly wasn’t the Bronx Zoo! We were in the home of these magical primates. The sounds and sights of Uganda were soothing and meditative. The country captured my heart with its vast, deep valleys, rows and rows of lush vegetation and an abundance of bananas, papayas and avocados. While driving along the roads in a Jeep, excited children waved at us wildly, jumping up and down. While Uganda is a relatively poor country situated in East Central Africa, it is often referred to as “The Pearl of Africa” due to its natural beauty and people known for their welcoming spirit, vibrancy and resilience.
As tourists on a safari, we were given the opportunity to give back, visiting schools and engaging with the young students. We also visited a tree nursery and did some planting there, leaving behind sprigs of greenery that will bloom and grow, along with the beautiful children we met.
Another stop was at the Bwindi Lodge overlooking the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, where we were to embark on a trek said to be one of the most onerous of all. Fear of the hike made me feel so sick that I dashed to the bathroom. What could be worse than an upset stomach in the jungle? Thankfully, my jitters were calmed by a singing and dancing troupe in traditional Ugandan tribal dress, performing the music of my African roots. This settled my soul.
The Author, Sheryl Nance-Nash, in the Kyambura Gorge
Courtesy Sheryl Nance-Nash
The drumming energized me; I felt like the ancestors were telling me I could do this. By the troupe’s last song, I was ready. I haven’t forgotten the power of my ancestors, whose strength is in my DNA. It has quieted me well beyond the jungle.
My nervousness returned as we climbed through treacherous terrain. At last, the gorillas were spotted, and I regained my courage as I was next to the 300-plus-pound primates that slowly sauntered past us, taking my breath away. I couldn’t believe at long last I was seeing them!
I wanted to cry.
Their size can evoke fear, though they’re gentle giants; their eyes are calm. When you look at them, you feel at peace. After a week in Uganda, I emerged victorious from the jungle. Mesmerized by the gorillas and surrounded by a lush landscape, I exhaled and discovered a new side of myself.
I had kept moving through fears and my perceived limitations, with newfound moxie and courage. Something about climbing those hills, and the joy of seeing those awesome creatures, taught me that I am only limited by my own imagination. I can seize the moment if I have the guts to believe in myself.
I left Uganda a different person, empowered, unafraid to fall or fail. That is a gift that will last the rest of my days.
Getting There:
You’ll need an East African Visa to enter Uganda, which can be obtained online, and printed proof of a yellow fever vaccination. More than a dozen airlines fly from the U.S. to Uganda. Expect to travel more than 20 hours. Fly into Entebbe International Airport, Uganda’s main airport. AeroLink specializes in scheduled and charter flights to national parks and other destinations.
Have any of you ever traveled to Africa? Where did you go? Let us know in the comments below.
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