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In the weekends just after Labor Day, when nights are cool and the days bathed in sunshine, I try not to leave the Midwest. I’m not fighting traffic to kayak down a river, poke around a small town’s antique stores or pluck vegetables from a farmstand. Naturally, I’m wearing a cozy sweater and sipping a latte during these magical days.
So many fall trips are centered around the Northeast and the Northwest — but the middle of the country is just as vibrant with foliage, wineries and harvest celebrations. There are small towns with natural wonders that include national parks and shores along the Great Lakes. The Midwest is also second only to California in its number of organic farms, ensuring lots of farm-to-fork dining experiences.
Here are six regions to visit in the Midwest this fall. While some towns offer an abundance of hikes and water sports, there’s still plenty to do for the more sedentary travelers in terms of sightseeing, dining experiences and riding on boats — instead of steering them.
Ely/Grand Marais, Minnesota
Did you love to canoe as a child and now are itching to get back on the water and relive your summer camp dreams? Those with the physical prowess to do so can take guided tours through the 1-million-acre Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness offered by half a dozen outfitters, including Ely Outfitting Company, which hosts all-women excursions.
There are no roads through the park, and the only navigation is via water. Being with an expert takes the worries out of portaging your canoe multiple times over small lakes, not to mention pitching a tent and preparing meals. Pre- or post-trip, learn a nearly bygone skill, such as basketry, blacksmithing or fiber arts, at North House Folk School in Grand Marais, also home to the town’s only boutique hotel, The Mayhew Inn, with affordable rates. Easy hikes along Lake Superior in Grand Marais include a concrete walkway by the 1885 Grand Marais Lighthouse.
Traverse City, Michigan
When a friend moved to Traverse City and declared it’s like Sonoma, I was admittedly suspicious. But after my first visit to this town of 15,000 people hugging Grand Traverse Bay, I agreed. Classic grape varieties — like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — are cultivated in two American Viticultural Areas: Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula.
Even if you’re not a sailor, a popular pastime here, there are plenty of attractions on land. The wineries host events and you might see grape-picking in progress. If staying in town, it’s easy to be wooed by Delamar Traverse City’s yoga studio, an outdoor heated pool and rooms framing the waterfront setting. To get up close to a Great Lake, climb the dunes at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, perched above Lake Michigan — or check it out from an overlook.
Lake Geneva, Wisconsin
Architecture fans can walk along sections of the flat 26-mile path encircling Geneva Lake, in the backyards of late 1800s-early 1900s mansions. Lake Geneva Ghost Walks also tap into the town’s history — plus its haunted folklore. For a narrated tour of those mansions, hop onto a boat ride with the Lake Geneva Cruise Line.
The sprawling Grand Geneva Resort & Spa was the Playboy Mansion in the 1960s and now features an Italian restaurant, a sunken bar, an outdoor pool and a spa. Downtown bungalows host cozy Airbnbs and are a short walk from Hill Valley Dairy’s cheese bar, where you can taste award-winning cheddar and gouda from this second-generation dairy business. Through the end of October, shop the Lake Geneva Farmer’s Market every Thursday in Horticultural Hall.
LaSalle County, Illinois
Illinois’ most-visited state park — Starved Rock State Park in Oglesby, in Central Illinois — draws crowds during summer but tapers off in autumn, when you can still hike the 13 miles of trails (.3-mile is the shortest and the longest is 4.7 miles) and witness waterfalls. Benches along the trails are quiet spots to rest and reflect. As a treat after a hike, visit Illinois Sparkling Co.’s tasting room in downtown Utica, then poke around antique stores and home-décor boutiques also on Main Street, or pair a glass of bubbly with a cave tour at its Peru vineyard.
A glamping ground with a restaurant serving wine and hosting pop-up events with Chicago chefs (Camp Aramoni) and a tiny-house resort (Getaway Starved Rock) are great spots to stay. LaSalle County Historical Society Canal Market is another spot not to miss.
Saugatuck, Michigan
This progressive and friendly town of just under 1,000 people is home to dozens of art galleries. I was shocked how much it reminded me of Cape Cod and that includes Wickwood Inn near downtown Saugatuck, owned by a Chicago interior-design duo that hired Oprah’s former chef to whip up daily breakfasts.
Start your day at the super-cute Outside Coffee Co. before a 40-minute dune-buggy ride near Saugatuck Dunes State Park. The town’s coastal farmhouse-chic Airbnbs are ideal for groups to spread out.
For one of Saugatuck’s best views, book an electric, brightly colored vintage boat through Retro Boat Rentals and sail up the Kalamazoo River. U-pick apple orchards are abundant in this part of Michigan including the sixth-generation-owned Crane Orchards, which also hosts a pie-and-wine (or cider) pairing flight in its tasting room.
Stillwater, Minnesota
Because this artsy town — an epicenter for the logging industry in the mid-to late-1800s — is along the St. Croix River, it’s possible to rent a kayak or canoe or hop onto a Stillwater River Boats cruise where someone else does the paddling.
This is the best vantage point to see fall foliage. More colors and inspiration can be viewed in Stillwater’s murals and art sculptures. You won’t need a car, just your own two feet, as the downtown is compact, with cafés, two bookstores, antique shops and two boutique hotels (Lora and Hotel Crosby).
Or you can bunk in a downtown condo or loft through Airbnb. On a weekend trip with girlfriends, we found plenty of coziness at indoor destinations, including Darn Knit Anyway, which hosts knitting classes and Sunday morning stitch sessions. Mon Petit Cheri gives off France-meets-Midwest vibes, down to the beignets with house-made jam.
Photo credits (top to bottom): Joe Mamer/Alamy Stock Photo; Jason Lindsey/Alamy Stock Photo; Getty Images; Courtesy Grand Geneva Resort & Spa; Jean Hatley/Courtesy Camp Aramoni; Craig Watson/Courtesy Saugatuck Douglas Area Convention & Visitors Bureau; Rob Schultz/Alamy Stock Photo
How many of you live in middle America? Have you been to any of the above spots? Let us know in the comments below.
